Part 2 of this kitchen update was to paint the concrete floor. In the adjacent dining room I had already removed the carpet and painted the concrete over 3 years ago. I planned to continue the same process in the kitchen!
The concrete floor had a few holes in it from where I removed the tack strip at the door and where it wasn’t poured perfect. I filled the larger holes with concrete patch that you buy to use in a caulk gun. Cost was $10. I only needed a couple of tablespoons, so there was a lot left over I didn’t need. The patch is paintable in an hour if water based paint is used over it. I used water based Kilz I already had to paint over the filled spots.
After totally removing the vinyl, cleaning the floor, and prepping it, it was time to prime. I first trimmed out the edges of the room with a 2″ sash brush. I then rolled on 2 coats of the Kilz oil primer. The oil primer has a very strong smell. It kept me up all night even with windows open and fans running. It only has to dry about an hour before you add a second coat.
After the primer dried overnight, I rolled on 2 coats of the Behr Porch & Patio flat paint. I didn’t use a paint tray, I just poured the paint directly on the floor and began rolling. The paint coats on really well.
I had to reclean the floor each time I put on a layer of paint. Dust, pet hair, and human hair, it was all in there no matter how much I cleaned the house.
When painting concrete you want to have as long of paint strokes as possible to prevent lines. This is where a extendable long paint roller handle comes in handy. It is well worth it to make the floors look good. I also painted the first coat horizontal, and the second coat the opposite way.
I also repainted the walls in just plain white. I didn’t want to add a bunch of different colors into the kitchen, especially since I was unsure how it was all going to look in the end with the new cabinets. I already had the Valspar paint in Bistro White too.
Before I painted I removed the shoe molding where the cabinets are going to go. It wasn’t too difficult, but I had to be careful to preserve it so I could reuse parts of it later.
After the second coat of brown paint had dried, I added some decorative stars using a stencil and some Martha Stewart Textured Metallic paint. I bought this at Home Depot several years ago when I redid the dining room floor the same way. I’m not sure if they carry the Martha Stewart line any more because a lot of her paint was metallic or textured and really hard to make look right.
I simply made a template out of mylar that I had left from landscape architecture school. drafting dots make the perfect temporary sticky tape!
After the stars dried I painted on one clear coat using the Behr Clear Coat Wet Sealer. It can take light foot traffic after 24 hours. This mean not going into the kitchen at all! After 3 days you can use it normally or move furniture back onto it. It was a happy moment of being finished, but then wondering what I was going to eat! Keep reading to see how it turned out.
The last step in painting the floor was adding some gripper additive. I saw it in the store and thought it would be good for safety since the painted floor can be slick when it’s wet. The man at the Lowes paint counter said to just sprinkle it on after I put the clear coat on.
Yeah right! It looked terrible!!! I mean, like crap, so it totally ruined the floor big time.
I don’t think anyone could ever sprinkle this stuff on evenly, so there was splotches of white sand all over the place. The man at Lowes said you wouldn’t even be able to see it… Get a grip Lowes paint man!
A lot of it didn’t even adhere and it was impossible to sweep up. It was also very crunchy walking on it and was being tracked throughout the house, which I didn’t want on the wood floors. It also tore up the sponge mop when I went to clean it, and it even caught my sock when I was walking on it one day and about sent me to the floor. What a waste, the tiny bag cost $7. I’m going to try and take it back!
The clear coat ended up looking terrible too as much as I tried to roll it out well. Roller lines and overlap lines will show up no matter how good you roll it. It had done this in the dining room too, but it wasn’t nearly as bad. I guess because it had gotten old. Where it wasn’t hazy, it was overly glossy and you couldn’t even really see the floor because of it. I had a ton of the clear coat left when I painted the dining room, and I didn’t want to have to buy a new jug of it.
I decided to paint the floor again and not put anymore gripper or clear coat on. So I had to buy another roller and paint it again. The flat paint looks so much better. The gripper still came through however, but it’s not as noticeable and not as sticky. It still doesn’t look nearly as good as when I had first painted it, but it is at least tolerable now.
I would not use the gripper sand. It made the floors look terrible.
I would have also nixed the clear coat. I think it does help in keeping the floor looking better from scuffs, but I would need to buy it again and I don’t want to spend that much again for something I’m barely going to use. And waiting 3 days for it to dry is a long time to not be in the kitchen. The floors aren’t perfect, so I’m not worried about it.
If you have pets, it’s likely there’s going to be some pet hair painted into the floor. I found some of my own hair in it too… You can’t tell it’s there, but it may be good to wear a hair net while painting the floors especially if you have course hair. Also a good idea to throughly clean the floors in the whole house too. I had fans going, so it brought it a lot of dust into the room.
I kept 2 fans on the floor at all times after I was done painting each coat. This helped it dry quicker. I still allowed more than enough time for it to dry however.
To keep the floors clean I simply vacuum them and use a sponge mop and water. Later on I might spray on some biokleen on the floor and then wipe it with the wet mop. I used to clean the vinyl with a mixture of vinegar water, but I don’t know how that would react with the paint.
Painted concrete floors is a great option when you want to redo your floors but can’t afford new flooring. It costs quite a bit just to remove the vinyl, but painting it wasn’t that much when compared to new flooring. Later on, new flooring could be easily added over the floors without a problem. I would never use any vinyl flooring, even as a temporary fix.
The total cost for removing and painting the floor was about $230. That included adhesive remover, face masks, power sander, sand paper, scrapers, TSP, cleaning brushes, scouring pads, gloves, paint rollers and roller handle, paint brush, paint guide, paint trays, kilz primer, floor paint, the stupid sand gripper, mineral spirits, and cement caulk and gun. I already had the metallic paint, some brushes, clear coat, metal paint tray, a long handled paint roller.
I have no idea what it would cost for someone to come in and do the job. I’m sure it would take them only a couple to few days to get it done, while it took me with help over 3 weeks. Removing the vinyl was very time consuming. Painting took a few days, but I’ve also become a very fast painter. It was consistently worked on, but some days I didn’t work on it at all. I’d say if you’re handy and have some tolerance for work like that, removing the floor is doable for about anyone. However you need to have good painting skills to make the painted floor look good.
Stay tuned for Kitchen Update PART 3 where we install the cabinets, counter top, and finish out the details.